A lot happened in 2023: Gabriela Hearst, head of creation at Chloé for three years, announced her departure, while Tom Ford left his eponymous label to pursue his cinematic passions. In a press release sent on 20 March 2023, Italian luxury brand Moschino revealed that Jeremy Scott was leaving his position as creative director after ten years of close collaboration. More recently, Surpeme also saw a high-profile departure, with the announcement that Tremaine Emory had stepped down. Elsewhere, the minimalist, contemporary style of Peter Do has joined Helmut Lang, while Louis Vuitton has appointed multi-talented artist Pharrell Williams to embody its new vision for men.
But it is not only at the top of the fashion houses that there has been a lot of movement. Over the past year, many brands have managed to worm their way into the hearts of fashion lovers.
If you found yourself lusting after a certain pair of sheer ballet flats, you were not alone. Led by Alaïa’s and The Row’s mesh soles, celebrities and consumers alike fell head over heels for the barely-there shoes. Speaking of shoes, 2023 could easily be the year of the Adidas Samba trainer, which quickly shot to the top of this year’s most popular off-duty kicks, while on the luxury front, Spanish brand Loewe came out on top with this year’s most popular logo, most prominently featured on the brand’s tank top.
However, the award for hottest brand went to Prada sister brand Miu Miu, the originator of the neoprene hoodie and the no-pants look, as seen on Emma Corrin. Continuing its reign from last year, Miu Miu was once again named brand of the year by Lyst, largely thanks to its celebrity-helmed campaigns, countless buzzy products (see: the logo cashmere cardigan that instantly became an ‘It’ item and spawned librarian-core) and collaborations with New Balance and Church’s. Searches for the Miuccia Prada-helmed house increased 39% year-on-year.
Miu Miu is also largely responsible for what Lyst identified as the trend that defined 2023: hot pants. Just when we thought the mini skirt couldn’t get any more, well, mini (also thanks to Miu Miu), stylish stars and influencers alike turned to super-short shorts to embrace the underwear-as-outerwear trend. We saw them everywhere, from red carpets to runways — but after Emma Corrin strutted Miu Miu’s Fall 2023 runway in gold sequin panties, searches for the brand spiked 257% in just 24 hours.
Surprisingly, the luxury-laden report gives the spot for the hottest bag of the year to a £14.90 steal. You may already be familiar with it: Uniqlo’s round shoulder bag took TikTok by storm and has remained an internet sensation ever since. Elsewhere, Beyonce’s Renaissance Tour outfits had us on the edge of our seats and Rihanna and A$AP Rocky were crowned the most fashionable couple. Jacquemus’ virtual reality campaign of XXL bags driving through the streets of Paris was named Campaign of the Year, and Kylie Jenner took home the title of Front Row Dresser #1, thanks to a controversial faux lion head dress by Schiaparelli.
As for the pop culture moments and stars who dominated the fashion scene in 2023, Beyoncé’s record-breaking “Renaissance” tour was the epitome of style, success and silver, according to Lyst, which named it the tour of the year. Queen B had more than 600 looks custom-made for her 56-show tour from the industry’s hottest designers, including Mugler, Alexander McQueen, Prada and Brandon Blackwood. The one that captivated concert-goers and fashion lovers the most, though, was a “hands” bodysuit designed by Loewe, which sent searches for the brand skyrocketing 140% on Lyst.
Gwyneth Paltrow’s courtroom appearance kept us entertained for at least a few days, and her secretly wealthy courtroom looks quickly became synonymous with fashion’s obsession with quiet luxury. Did we miss anything? It definitely never gets boring.
So, what’s to come in 2024?
In short, the leopard print explosion. To be fair, animal print in general never goes out of style, but this year is certainly going to see a real renaissance. Think 2009-Olsen-twins, Chloe-Sevigny-cool and Indie Sleaze abundance. Same goes for polka dots and stripes: True staples of the 2010s.
2024 wants to push juxtaposition. While 2023 was the year of Mermaid-Core and a new Fanta-sea, this year will be nautical. The sailor influence used to be a twee and manic pixie girl (think Jess from New Girl) staple, but this time around it’s going to be very versatile. John Galliano, the pioneer of the trend, worked nautical influences into Christian Dior and some Margiela shows in the early 2010s. What makes this so interesting in terms of styling is the unexpected versatility. From adjacent girly pop/ballet core influences to polished edge. Think of it as the final frontier of the bow trend, with the sailor’s knot playing nicely into the mix.
As the fashion world bids adieu to the whirlwind that was 2023 – the ever-evolving landscape where trends collide and style narratives unfold, 2024 beckons as a canvas for the unexpected, inviting enthusiasts to embrace the harmony of juxtapositions and chart new frontiers in the realm of personal expression. Fashion, as always, remains an ever-thriving tapestry where the unexpected is the true constant.
