Like many others, a career in the fashion industry was somehow inevitable for me. But the defining moment was certainly Dries van Noten’s SS15 collection. 16 years old me, was glued to her laptop screen, savouring the pure artistry of his designs.
In the Spring/Summer 2015 collection, Dries van Noten transported us into a world of opulent daydreams and vivid reverie. Presented during Paris Fashion Week, the collection was a masterful blend of rich textures and bold prints that epitomise van Noten’s signature style. Inspired by the exoticism of far-flung places and the intricate beauty of traditional craftsmanship, the collection was a riot of colour and pattern. Models floated down the catwalk in flowing silks and luxurious brocades, each garment telling a story of global influence and meticulous design. Flowers shone in vibrant colours, while gold threads threaded through delicate fabrics, adding a touch of royal glamour – a Midsummer Night’s Dream as described in John Everett Millais’ Ophelia.
You can probably imagine how devastated I was when the news broke that Dries van Noten would be leaving his eponymous label and thus his last show was to be seen in Paris last weekend.
Here is what happened:
On a balmy evening in Paris last Saturday, the grand stage of fashion bade a poignant farewell to one of its most revered artisans, Dries van Noten. To comprehend the depth of this moment, one must delve into the rich tapestry of van Noten’s storied career, a journey marked by relentless creativity, unwavering authenticity, and a legacy that has indelibly shaped the fashion landscape.
Dries van Noten’s journey began in the vibrant heart of Antwerp, Belgium. Born into a family entrenched in the world of fashion—his father was a menswear shop owner and his grandfather a tailor—van Noten’s path seemed almost predestined. His formal education at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp not only honed his skills but also introduced him to a cohort of like-minded visionaries. This group, famously known as the Antwerp Six, included names that would later echo through the halls of haute couture, but none with a voice quite like van Noten’s.
Van Noten’s designs are a masterclass in juxtaposition. He weaves together intricate patterns with minimalist silhouettes, marrying the ornate with the understated. His collections often draw from an eclectic mix of cultural references, reflecting a deep appreciation for art, history, and global traditions. Each piece tells a story, a narrative spun from the threads of his imagination and stitched with meticulous care. His runway shows have always been more than mere presentations; they are theatrical events that transport audiences to realms where fabric and fantasy converge.
The culmination of his illustrious career was nothing short of a grand ode to fashion itself. Set against the timeless backdrop of Paris, the city where dreams are both woven and worn, van Noten’s final show was a symphony of emotion. The venue, bathed in a soft, melancholic light, was filled with an air of wistful anticipation. As the models glided down the runway, draped in designs that echoed the greatest hits of his career, there was an unmistakable sense of history being made.
Each piece seemed to whisper tales of van Noten’s journey. Vibrant florals reminiscent of his early work, intricate embroideries that spoke of his unparalleled craftsmanship, and bold, fearless prints that embodied his daring spirit. The audience, a mélange of fashion’s most influential figures and adoring fans, watched with bated breath, fully aware that they were witnessing the end of an era.
The conclusion of the show was met with a standing ovation, tears glistening in the eyes of many. It was a moment of collective realization: the fashion world was losing not just a designer, but a poet of textiles, a conjurer of beauty. Dries van Noten’s departure marks the end of a chapter rich with innovation and passion, leaving behind a legacy that will continue to inspire and influence for generations.
As the lights dimmed and the final echoes of applause faded, the sense of loss was palpable. The fashion world bids adieu to Dries van Noten not just with sadness, but with profound gratitude. His contributions have transcended the ephemeral nature of fashion, embedding themselves into the very fabric of its history. Though we say goodbye to his active presence on the runway, the essence of Dries van Noten will forever linger, a timeless beacon of elegance and creativity.
The Gucci-Fication of Valentino
But before Dries celebrated his farewell in Paris, another designer marked his debut in Milan. Anyone who is like me, needs the occasional break from doom scrolling on TikTok and goes onto doom scroll on vogue runway right after. And if you’re like me you likely noticed fashionable design parallels that certainly forced you to look twice. Valentino presented their Resort25 Collection under Alessandro Michele – but it was shockingly obvious that these are not the Valentino-esque designs we know.
“It is an incredible honor,” Alessandro Michele recently told VOGUE on his appointment as creative director of Valentino. He follows in the footsteps of Pierpaolo Piccioli, whose career at the house began in 1999. Joining the Roman label as head of accessories (and quickly brought a breath of fresh air to the department) before taking over the creative direction of the company alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri. He was eventually appointed sole creative director from 2016 to 2024.
his passionate work for the Italian fashion house. Double heads on the catwalk, a hyper-realistic snake and dragon, a third eye on models’ foreheads… The designer became known for giving the Italian luxury house, named after its founder Guccio Gucci, a new, breathtaking vision. The Rome-born designer’s first collection for Valentino was eagerly awaited by the fashion world. Titled “Avant les Débuts”, the Resort 2025 collection features no fewer than 189 designs and 93 images of shoes, bags and accessories. Alessandro Michele decided to present his first collection at an impromptu press conference to which he invited only a handful of journalists.
Regarding the development of his designs, he confided to VOGUE Runway: “How did I start working at Valentino? As if we were an orchestra; everyone played their instrument with so much love and dedication. I felt it was right to be grateful to the people who worked tirelessly to make this happen. My job is to tune instruments and it’s all about sharing them with others, so I didn’t think it was right to keep the collection from the public eye. It’s a beginning that was born out of love – it wants to be illuminated, seen and shared.” Alessandro Michele had little time to design the pieces, yet he wanted to create a wardrobe anchored in the style of Valentino Garavani. He drew inspiration from him throughout the process.
But do we, the Vogue Runway Doom Scrollers, even see the style and nostalgia that Michele wanted to convey in the Valentino designs? Alessandro Michele’s signature is impossible to miss – from complex compositions to lavishly embellished, extravagant pieces to the mix-and-match of colors and patterns. Even the trained eye certainly has to look twice to realize that although these are Michele’s designs, they are not those of the house for which he is best known. Don’t get me wrong, to move on to a house like Valentino after years of working for Gucci makes sense on many levels – not just for the designer, but you can’t help but wonder: will Valentino become the new Gucci with Alessandro Michele at the helm? The signs are there. The Ressort 2025 collection features long, silky floral dresses and velvet suits inspired by the seventies, costumes and houndstooth patterns reminiscent of the sixties or of pearls, long checkered coats, bags that echo the Valentino logo, ruffled skirts and riding boots. An aesthetic that, in his opinion, comes close to Valentino’s vision. For this reason, he went through the entire archive of the house.
Alessandro Michele explains to Vogue: “Valentino was never a minimalist, rather a maximalist – even in the 70s, when he was probably at his purist best”. The former creative director of Gucci decided not to explore just one stylistic decade of Valentino, but rather to design a collection that reflects different decades. Conclusion: Now that we have had a taste of his creative work for Valentino, it remains to be seen what will follow.
Gucci, on the other hand, looks rather tame – gentle even. “Like the sea that washes every shore without prejudice, so too a museum is an entirely open space, nourishing those who are drawn to it.” Those are the words that Sabato used to introduce his SS25 menswear collection for Gucci. Touching on themes of freedom, of living life without restraint, speaking your mind, and following your heart, it looks to the communities formed in spaces that facilitate such.
Reflecting such encounters, or incontri, through tailoring decisions, silhouettes, and colour palettes, Gucci welcomed guests into a coastal dream in the heart of Milan. Long wool coats with exaggerated pockets and openings in the back, embossed leather masquerading as corduroy, appliqué embroidered flowers and beaded fringe, and prints of surfers, dolphins, and banana leaves made their way down the runway alongside archival-inspired Gucci luggage and classic accessories.
